41°08′N · 9°32′E — Mediterranean Charter Log

Costa Smeralda & LaMaddalena

RoutePorto Cervo → Bonifacio
DurationSeven days
SeasonMay — October
Curated byThe WOY

Before departure

In 1962 the Aga Khan looked at a stretch of empty Sardinian coast and decided to build the most exclusive marina in the world. The Costa Smeralda is what happened next.

Sixty years on, the marina is still a benchmark — but the real subject of the week is what sits twenty minutes north of it: the La Maddalena archipelago, seven main islands and forty-odd rocks scattered across the Strait of Bonifacio, where the only marina is your stern and the only beach club is the one your crew sets up on the sand.

The water here is not the same colour as the rest of the Mediterranean. It is greener, paler, and at certain angles it is luminous. The granite the islands are cut from is pink and gold; the sand, where there is sand, is white as flour. There are stretches of coast a road has never reached.

For seven days, the route slides between two registers — the polished one of Porto Cervo and the wild one of Caprera and Budelli — and the boat lives in the second.

Log 01/07 · Porto Cervo

Porto Cervo

Embark at the Marina di Porto Cervo, the most demanding harbour in the Mediterranean for crews and the easiest one for guests.

For the afternoon, among the options:

  • A short reposition to a cove just outside the marina — Cala Petra Ruja or Liscia Ruja — for a first swim.
  • A coastal cruise along Capo Ferro and Punta Asfodeli.
  • An hour ashore at the Piazzetta of Porto Cervo for the boutiques.

For the evening, the choices:

  • An aperitivo at Phi Beach at Forte Cappellini — the bar carved into the granite rocks, sunset over the Maddalena strait.
  • A first dinner aboard at anchor, slower start.
  • Ashore at one of the Porto Cervo restaurants — Il Pescatore at the old harbour (family-run since 1965) for the quiet line; the Cala di Volpe Bar for the polished one.
Porto Cervo — Costa Smeralda & La Maddalena
Porto CervoDay 1
Log 02/07 · Cala di Volpe & Romazzino

Cala di Volpe & Romazzino

Two of the great anchorages of the Mediterranean, both within an hour's cruise.

Morning, among the options:

  • Anchor off Cala di Volpe for a swim and breakfast.
  • A coastal walk on the Sentiero del Pevero.
  • A jet ski circuit around the Hotel Romazzino beach.

Lunch, the choices:

  • Poolside at the Hotel Cala di Volpe, when their Sunday Buffet is on — a four-hour Costa Smeralda ritual.
  • A shore picnic on the dunes of Liscia Ruja, the crew bringing the table down by tender.
  • Aboard at anchor for a lighter option.

Afternoon:

  • An afternoon at the Hotel Pitrizza beach (anchored offshore, day-pass through the hotel).
  • A slow reposition toward Punta Liccia for the late swim.
  • A visit to Capichera, the AOC Vermentino winery at San Pantaleo, inland — private tours can be arranged in advance.

For the evening:

  • Dinner aboard at anchor with the lights of the coast behind.
  • A second evening ashore at the Cala di Volpe terrace or at one of the new addresses of Cervo (Confusion Roof Garden, etc.).
Costa Smeralda — Costa Smeralda & La Maddalena
Cala di Volpe & RomazzinoDay 2
Log 03/07 · La Maddalena & Caprera

La Maddalena & Caprera

Cross the strait. The archipelago opens. The water changes colour within a mile.

Morning, among the options:

  • Anchor off Cala Coticcio on Caprera — called "Tahiti" locally, and the comparison is not generous to Tahiti.
  • A walk on Caprera to the Compendio Garibaldino, the house and tomb of Giuseppe Garibaldi.
  • A SUP circuit through the rocks of Punta Rossa.

For lunch:

  • Aboard at anchor in Cala Coticcio.
  • A shore picnic on a smaller beach of Caprera, where landing is permitted.

Afternoon, the choices:

  • A move west to Cala Granara on Spargi — a curve of white sand the colour of flour, two hundred metres long, no road within twenty kilometres.
  • A coastal cruise to Spargi for the cliffs on the south side.
  • A long swim from the platform at anchor.

For the evening:

  • Dinner aboard at anchor in the archipelago, no lights on the coast.
  • A run back to La Maddalena town for an aperitivo in the small piazza and a simple dinner ashore.
La Maddalena archipelago — Costa Smeralda & La Maddalena
La Maddalena & CapreraDay 3
Log 04/07 · Budelli, Razzoli & Santa Maria

Budelli, Razzoli & Santa Maria

The northern archipelago — the wildest stretch of the week.

Morning, among the options:

  • Anchor at respectful distance from Spiaggia Rosa on Budelli (pink coral sand — landings strictly forbidden, the view from the yacht is the point).
  • A long swim in the Cala Lunga on Razzoli.
  • The natural pool of Cala Soraya between Razzoli and Santa Maria.

For lunch:

  • A long lunch underway through the strait between Razzoli and Santa Maria, the channel called Passo degli Asinelli — depths of two metres, captain on the bridge, every guest on the swim platform.
  • Aboard at anchor in the lee of Santa Maria.

Afternoon, the choices:

  • A slow circuit of Santa Maria's western shore.
  • A reposition to Cala dei Cocomeri for the afternoon swim.
  • A snorkel along the granite walls of Razzoli for the small protected fish.

For the evening:

  • Dinner aboard at anchor in the archipelago.
  • A move south to one of the small ports of La Maddalena for an evening ashore.
La Maddalena — Costa Smeralda & La Maddalena
Budelli, Razzoli & Santa MariaDay 4
Log 05/07 · Porto Cervo, the night out

Porto Cervo, the night out

Return to base for the evening — the Costa Smeralda nightlife is not subtle, and that is the appeal.

Morning, among the options:

  • A late swim at anchor in Cala Garibaldi before the move south.
  • A slow cruise back along the eastern coast of Caprera.
  • A morning at Porto Massimo or Porto Palma for the kite-surfers.

For lunch:

  • Aboard underway.
  • Ashore in Porto Cervo — Il Pescatore at the old harbour, or Spinnaker at the Marina del Porto Cervo.

Afternoon:

  • An afternoon at the Phi Beach sun loungers — the rocks turn red around six.
  • A swim at Cala Liccia, just south of the marina.
  • Shopping at the Porto Cervo Piazzetta — Italian houses well represented.

For the evening, the choices:

  • A long dinner at Il Pescatore for the quiet line (seafood, family-run, the real Sardinia).
  • A late evening starting at the Cala di Volpe Bar and moving on to Phi Beach or Just Cavalli Cala di Volpe.
  • A dinner aboard at the marina, with the Porto Cervo light show on the water.
Costa Smeralda at sunset — Costa Smeralda & La Maddalena
Porto Cervo, the night outDay 5
Log 06/07 · Tavolara

Tavolara

A single, vertical mountain rising 564 m out of the sea, ten miles south of Olbia. The island has eleven inhabitants and a rich micro-history — the descendants of the Bertoleoni family have, for two centuries, claimed it as the world's smallest kingdom.

Morning, among the options:

  • A slow cruise south along the coast with stops at the small coves between Capo Ceraso and Capo Coda Cavallo.
  • A swim in the Spalmatore di Terra bay below Tavolara's western flank.
  • A circumnavigation of Tavolara by tender for the southern cliffs.

For lunch:

  • Ashore at Da Tonino, the island's restaurant — the chef is also the host, and lunch is whatever the day's boats brought in. Booking essential.
  • Aboard at anchor in the bay.

Afternoon, the choices:

  • A swim at Spiaggia di Tavolara below the village.
  • A reposition to the small island of Molara for the southern beaches.
  • A walk on Tavolara's only accessible path for the views over the strait.

For the evening:

  • Dinner aboard at anchor in the bay.
  • A run back north for a late evening in Porto Cervo or at the Phi Beach.
Isola di Tavolara — Costa Smeralda & La Maddalena
TavolaraDay 6
Log 07/07 · Bonifacio crossing

Bonifacio crossing

A morning crossing back north to the Lavezzi islands off Bonifacio — the perfect closing swim.

Morning, among the options:

  • A long swim in the Cala di Lavezzu on the Lavezzi — the granite reefs, the cemetery from the Sémillante shipwreck of 1855.
  • A reposition to the Îles Cerbicale for the southern shore.
  • A walk on the Lavezzi to the Cala Achiarina.

For lunch:

  • Aboard at anchor at the Lavezzi.
  • A move north into Bonifacio — a long lunch at Stella d'Oro in the upper town, or one of the harbour-front terraces.

Afternoon:

  • A walk through the upper town of Bonifacio — Bastion de l'Étendard, the cemetery, the Escalier du Roi d'Aragon down the cliff to the sea.
  • Shopping in the upper town for Corsican charcuterie and brocciu cheese.
  • A coastal cruise out of Bonifacio for the Grottes and the Capo Pertusato caves before the disembarkation.

Disembarkation, the options:

  • Helicopter from Figari airport to Olbia, Nice or Rome.
  • The yacht continues south back to Olbia for an evening flight.
  • Late departure from Bonifacio's small ferry quay by car.
Bonifacio, Corsica — Costa Smeralda & La Maddalena
Bonifacio crossingDay 7

The week at a glance

Seven days, summarised.

01 Porto Cervo Embark at the Marina di Porto Cervo, the most demanding harbour in the Mediterranean for crews and the easiest one for guests. 02 Cala di Volpe & Romazzino Two of the great anchorages of the Mediterranean, both within an hour's cruise. 03 La Maddalena & Caprera Cross the strait. The archipelago opens. The water changes colour within a mile. 04 Budelli, Razzoli & Santa Maria The northern archipelago — the wildest stretch of the week. 05 Porto Cervo, the night out Return to base for the evening — the Costa Smeralda nightlife is not subtle, and that is the appeal. 06 Tavolara A single, vertical mountain rising 564 m out of the sea, ten miles south of Olbia. The island has eleven inhabitants and a rich micro-history — the descendants of the Bertoleoni family have, for two… 07 Bonifacio crossing A morning crossing back north to the Lavezzi islands off Bonifacio — the perfect closing swim.

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